29 July - Kathgodam to Dharchula

As we made our way outside the Kathgodam station, we found our guide Sahji waiting for us with 2 jeeps ready to go. There were introductions made, our sacks were tied onto the overhead carrier, covered with tarpaulin because it often rains in the mountains and we pushed off on the 285 km long road from Kathgodam to Dharchula.

About 45 kms from Kathgodam, we took our first halt at Kainchidham. Here, we found an ashram, dedicated to Shri Neeb Karori Maharaj who is especially revered in north India. The ashram complex had 4 temples, of Vaishno Devi, Ramji, Hanumanji and Shiva. The temples were unique in that they were spotlessly clean. The idols were made of pure white marble and the inner walls of the temples were decorated with fine tapestry in rich colors of yellow, red, blue and gold.

We had breakfast at a little roadside restaurant next to the ashram. Hot pyaaz pakoras and tall glasses of lemonade flavoured with jal-jeera. Needless to say, we hogged. And lived to regret it. The road ahead was so winding and full of hairpin bends and curves that within an hour at least 2 people had lost that delicious breakfast.

So we opted for a late and light lunch and made our way to Almora. Almora, in the valley, is pretty. The tiny cottages and lavish bungalows clinging to the cliffside look like a picture postcard. The mountains are covered with tall pine and leafy rhododendrons. Little brooks and mountain streams play hide and seek amongst the rocks and foliage. Puran Singh, our 2nd guide was an expert on the local flora and fauna and pointed out interesting specimen. See the trident-shaped pine in photo.

A foaming white river called Dhauli Ganga, kept us company towards the end of our journey. The wide expanse of the river, especially when viewed from a height of 500 or so feet was a dizzying sight. But it was just a trailer of things to come. We would soon catch up with a demonic river, the Kali, near Kathgodam. Most of the 230 kms of the trek would be spent walking alongside this river and she would give us nightmares for quite some time.

We reached Kathgodam by 7.00 pm, almost 12 hrs after we started. And saw the Kali for the first time. No love at first sight there. Just across the river is Nepal. Kali acts as a border between India and Nepal. People freely walk across the bridge connecting the two banks. Hindi Nepali, Bhai Bhai.